Jadam

Jadam

There are various ways to make JADAM and some are better than others.

One of the most important parts of making this JADAM fertilizer / liquid compost is to make sure that you have a good collection of healthy and diverse bio-masses to begin with.

As I explain in the next section, you can improve your local soils bio-mass by watering it daily for several days or a few weeks and adding some starch or even brown sugar to expedite the growth in your soil biome before you take this "leaf mulch sample" and put it in your JADAM "brew".

The following method and information below are what I have found to be the most useful.

Almost every text, video, website and document that I have seen neglects to add the critically important "mineral" content because they opt for a small amount of sea salt as this resource.

What they do not tell you is that most "salt products" are over 90% Sodium Chloride (NaCl) and so you would literally have to add 20 or more teaspoons of sea salt just to get 1 teaspoon of minerals.

This would very quickly saturate your soil with sodium chloride and make it almost useless unless you are growing "saltbush".

The second major point which you must also consider is that typical sea salt (not DOM minerals), contains ONLY around 40 trace minerals.

The other thing that you are not told about DOM minerals is that in un-concentrated deep sea water, magnesium is the second most abundant dissolved ion (averaging upwards of 96,000 mg/L in the deep ocean).

The most abundant is sodium chloride. ("NaCl" )

These are all important points you need to understand and account for if you want healthier plants.

I also teach you how to enhance your local bio-mass biome before you use it in your JADAM so that your end product is much more potent and thus offers you greater benefits.

JADAM ↟↟

JADAM is similar to "Anaerobic Compost Tea" .

The most important difference is that you get some decomposing "mulch" from your local countryside and include this in your "brew".

There is a warning though which most people do not discuss and that is NOT ALL Mycorrhizal Fungi is beneficial to "every" plant.

See a general (incomplete) list of compatible plants with their respected "Mycorrhizal Fungi" companions here.

This means that you need to know what you are growing before you get your leaf mulch so that it is compatible with your desired plant health.

Second Important Point

Which most people do not discuss is pH.

This second point is critical if you want healthy plants and LESS insects.

Some plants like acidic pH soils, some like alkaline pH soils and some prefer a more neutral pH.

Growing an acid loving plant in alkaline soil will make the plant not only weaker, but also more susceptible to insect attacks.

Why do insects attack unhealthy plants you ask?

This is because, just like humans, when they are sick, they exude a "smell" which insects can (and do) detect and it is like their dinner bell.

For the skeptics, there is a woman who can smell "Parkinsons" even before it is diagnosed.

And animals are being trained that can smell "cancers".

Aphids etc

And then you have misery-guts Aphids and their mob that attack healthy plants.

Aphids can replicate both sexually and asexually (self cloning virgin births).

Aphids alternate between asexual reproduction (self-cloning) in the spring and summer to rapidly multiply, and sexual reproduction in the fall to produce hardy eggs that can survive the winter.

How to stop Aphids?

Aphids do not like "Neem Oil" but there is a warning with Neem oil and this is to use it very lightly or you will clog up the pores of the plants you are trying to save and ultimately kill them yourself.

The "trick" is to NOT SPRAY the Aphids per se, but to spray the plant.

Aphids love nitrogen.

Aphids literally thrive on high nitrogen levels.

Excessive nitrogen (N) over stimulate rapid plant growth, resulting in thin cell walls that are easy to pierce - especially when you understand just how Aphids actually feed.

If you use any NPK fertilizers, especially high in Nitrogen (N) mixtures, then you need to be aware that not only are you damaging your soil Biome from the nitrogen, but you are also inviting every Aphid within smelling distance to come and destroy your plants.

And once they arrive at your buffet, they will multiple exponentially to the point that most farmers resort to chemical warfare to combat them.

RainFast ? ↟↟

What is RainFast?

RainFast is an agricultural term "typically" used to describe a chemical spray (such as a herbicide, pesticide, or fertilizer) that has dried or been absorbed by a plant, meaning it will not be washed off when it rains or from the farmer doing aerial irrigation.

However, "RainFast" may also apply to any other product which needs to stay on the plant for a protracted period of time.

In this case, we are talking about "Neem Oil" (which Aphids hate).

If it rains before the component sprayed onto the plants has become RainFast, the active ingredients may be diluted or even completely washed away.

If that happens, you will need to reapply after it stops raining and you have several "Clear" days ahead.

TIP:

This is NOT A rain fast method, it is a method to allow maximum association and potentil absorption by the plant of the JADAM spray when it is used as a Foliar Spray.

If you are using this as a foliar spray, decant 2 pints (1 liter), filter twice through unbleached coffee filter paper and then add 10 - 15 drops of natural "Castile Soap".

Castile Soap is considered a natural soap made from a blend of natural vegetable (Only) oils like coconut, jojoba, hemp, and olive oils (all plant-based oils) and a natural alkali.

Shake gently, and then spray onto your plants.

The Castile Soap helps the liquid adhere to the leaves by acting as a surfactant.

You only need a small amount of soap to break up the surface tension of the water.

The soap molecules disrupt the cohesive bonds between water molecules, allowing the water to spread out and become "wetter," and penetrate and stick to surfaces more easily.

Spraying ↟↟

Do NOT spray Neem Oil on your plants just before or during rain.

"Neem Oil" should be sprayed on with at least 24 hours of NO rain so that it does not wash off.

If it does rain, then you will need to re-apply after the rain has finished and that will be a waste of money which could have been avoided.

Please read this regarding using Castile Soap in your spray - if you have not done so.

Spray Bottle Sizes ↟↟

If you have a small garden, then a hand held atomizer bottle may suffice for all of your needs.

However, if you have a large garden, hothouse or even a small farm, I would suggest a "Backpack Sprayer" or even a (stand alone) "Power Sprayer".

Stand alone simply means that it uses gasoline / petrol / benzine of Diesel as its power source + These days, there are even battery powered units which is something that was not available when I was doing organics.

How To Make JADAM

Firstly, here is a quick TIP regarding getting better quality leaf mulch fungi.

There are 2 ways of doing this:

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• You can enhance this even further by adding a few TABLESPOONS of organic potato (corn / rice / etc) starch powder to this watering can as well.

What You Will Need ↟↟

If you are going to do this properly for the average home yard and garden, then you will need at least a 60 liter drum (tank).

Using smaller 5 gallon containers may feel warm and fuzzy, but is not practicable in the real world. Especially if you have a garden.

Most videos online say to water or spray this on your plants every week or 2 but I say, why not do it daily if you can?

It just takes a little bit more work (like 10 minutes or so) every day to have super healthy plants and vegetables. Remember the sifted wood ash.

You can buy these 60, 120 and 220 liter drum brand new or you can get cheaper ones that are second hand and Hope that they did not previously contain toxic chemicals.

Buying Drums

There are 2 ways to buy 200 - 220 liter (55 - 60 gallon) blue drums.

1) Buy from Amazon of other supplier / manufacturer.

2) Buy 2nd Hand drums which have been used to transport FOOD items (usually Olives).

IF you do buy a 2nd hand drum, you MUST get something in writing from the seller that these were only used for food and NOT for chemicals.

Even an email will suffice IF you need to take legal action some time in the future.

To buy from Amazon (USA):

• 55 Gallon Open Top Drum (Blue)
• 55 Gallon Open Top Drum (Yellow)
• 15 Gallon Open Top Drum

To buy from 2nd Hand:** (Disclaimer)

** (Disclaimer) We are not liable for any decision you make or any item you purchase regardless of whether it is in good faith or other. The information provided above is for information purposes ONLY and it is your legal obligation to perform your own "due diligence".

Buy 2nd Hand 220 Liter Drums ↟↟

Please double check - before you buy - that these are food grade and that NO chemicals have been used in them.

"USA"	"UK"	"Canada"
"Australia"	"Singapore"	"Japan"
"NZ"	"Europe"	"Malaysia"
"Ghana"	"Nigeria"	"South Africa"
"Brazil"	"Argentina"	"Chile"
"Israel"	"Germany"	"Italy"

You Will Need - Continued ↟↟

This is for a 60 gallon (220 liter) drum.

1. 1 or 2 TABLESPOONS of ROCK salt (NEVER table salt and NEVER iodized salt as iodine is antibacterial).
2. 1 x gallon or half a regular bucket (by volume) of moist "moldy" leaf mulch.
3. 2 clean old socks or nylon stockings.
4. 1 or 2 Kg (2-5lbs) of large potatoes.
5. A 60, or 120, or 220 liter OPEN TOP HDPE Plastic drum.
6. 2 meters (yards) of "nylon" string.
7. A long stick (like a broom or mop handle) to lay across the top of the drum.
8. OPTIONAL: a "Laundry Bag" if you are doing a large amount of leaf mulch (ie: 200 liter - 55 gallon drum or greater), then seriously consider the Laundry Bag option.
9. Unchlorinated water
10. Several cups of fine silvery Fire ash (NOT charcoal)
11. 1 fine mesh Flour Sieve "[1]" or "[2]" or "[3]"
12. (OPTIONAL) 1/2 Kg (1 lb) of brown sugar.
13. (OPTIONAL) Whey Powder "[1]" or "[2]".

Do NOT use a metal container or drum.

Method ↟↟

This is optional, you can either put the leaf mulch in one sock (or sticking), or simply deposit it into the bottom of the drum.

Add 2 (ONLY) TABLESPOONS of brown sugar.

Add 1 TEASPOON of rock salt.

3/4 fill the drum with clean filtered (unchlorinated) water.

If you are using a sock, then hang the sock with the leaf mulch from the stick on top of the OPEN TOP drum.

Potatoes OPTIONS

1. Boil and mash the potatoes (some claim this is best)
2. My method, is to use a blender and puree the RAW potatoes.

Soak the blended potatoes in a large glass container and you will see the pure "white" potato Starch "precipitate" settle on the bottom of the jar.

Potatoes

Pour the potatoes into the second sock or stocking (etc) and then tie both of these to the stick and suspend in the water so that they are completely covered.

Remember to check your water every few days and keep it topped up as needed.

Sift your "fire ash" and keep in a sealed plastic or glass container.

What you need to keep is the "silvery" powder. (nothing else)

NOTE: There is a lot of Minerals in the Silvery Ash and none (comparatively speaking) in the charcoal.

NOTE: Adding too much salt will eventually cause stress to your plants so I find it easier to simply avoid using as much salt as possible. A little bit is good, but too much is deadly.

My personal dosage rates are 1 "Flat" teaspoon of Himalayan Salt per 200 liters (55 gallons) of liquid.

I prefer Himalayan Salt because it has a high iron content compared to other salts.

TIP:

Add 1 "Flat" teaspoon of ROCK Salt into a glass / plastic or metal container, and then add 3 TABLESPOONS of silvery powder and water and mix together.

The salt will help "Chelate" the minerals.

You ONLY need 1 Tablespoon of silvery powder per "smaller" batch - but 1 or 2 cups full is better if you are making larger batches of 55 gallons (220 liters) or more.

Suggestion

When your "JADAM Brew" is ready, and you are using a 2 gallon (8 liter) "Watering Can" to water this onto your plants, consider adding several Tablespoons of NON GMO starch (potato or non-gmo-corn or other) and several Tablespoons of Brown Sugar into the water before watering your plants.

Plus if you have access to wood ash, add 1/2 cup of wood ash to this as well to help your overall soil biome.

It is best however, to add the sifted wood ash into the JADAM so that the bacteria can consume it and this makes the minerals more bio-available to the plants and earth worms etc.

This gives the bacteria you have just made lots of "extra" food and this is especially useful IF you have poor quality soils.

Timeline ↟↟

After 1 - 2 weeks, you should start to notice bubbling. (usually after several days)

This is when you can add some small amounts of Starch, sugar (or molasses) and wood ash.

This may even become a thick white foamy bubbling "mat" effect.

Decant

Decant (remove) approx 50% of the fermented water and then... at this point you can add more of the following (in small amounts) every few days:

Firstly fill up your tank (container / drum) and then add.

This is for a 55 gallon (220 liter) drum.

• 1 regular coffee cup of Silvery Ash
• 1/2 cup of Brown sugar
• 1 cup of NON GMO Starch
• 1/2 cup of Whey Powder "[1]" or "[2]".
• 3 Teaspoon of "Blackstrap Molasses"

Do not add this before you decant the top 50% of water - or - the bacteria (gas) may literally "erupt" out of the container.

Topping Up ↟↟

My suggestion is to only remove around 50% of the liquid when you want to use it.

This way, after you add more clean filtered "warm" (NOT hot) water and bacteria food, you can literally double your bacterial output every 30 minutes (or so) when the temperature is between 25C - 40C (77F - 105F).

This means that with the right temperature and food (plus minerals), you could literally harvest this every day (in warmer regions).

Microscope TIP: ↟↟

2 things to note here.

I bought a microscope and watched the progression of how fast the bacteria grew when I added different "food".

If you want to see a successful bacteria count, buy some YAKULT probiotic from your health food store and check that out "under a microscope".

This is the kind of microbial activity you should be aiming for in your compost tea and your JADAM.

Diary

Keep a diary so that you have data on times, food amounts, food types, water temperatures, seasonal temperatures etc that you can use to maximize your grow rate and save time and money.

Also, have a diary for each type of compost you are making.

Wood Ash Concern ↟↟

Some wood contains chemicals (including specialized insecticides such as Tim-bor or Bora-Care and / or Copper and Arsenic using - Chromated Copper Arsenate) etc to stop termites and other "wood borers" (of which there are too many to list), and if you do get (or buy) the wood ash from a fireplace, please make sure that only Natural "untreated" wood was used.

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Other Compost Links ↟↟

• Why Make Your Own Compost?
• Make Your Own Compost
• Compost - Bag Method
• Compost - Drum Method
• Anaerobic Compost Tea
• Aerobic Compost Tea
• BioChar - Terra Preta
• JADAM

About Salt

Adding a small amount of salt to your JADAM helps with osmotic pressure (in the water), plus if you get the right salt, it actually add minerals to your JADAM which is important.

Epsom Salts is not a salt in the common sense of the word and is primariliry 7H₂O, Magnesium and Sulfur.

Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate heptahydrate) contains about 9.8% elemental magnesium by mass. The remaining weight is made up of sulfur (~13%) and water (~51%) (yep).

Table salt and Iodised salt are complete cr*p (IMO) and I suggest that you avoid them like the plague.

The most common commercially available salts.

For example: "Baja Gold Sea Salt" contains +- 70% minerals compared to common "Sea Salt" which contains 1% - 2% which makes Baja Gold Sea Salt 35 - 70 times more mineral dense than sea salt.

Dead Sea Salt	12% - 18% NaCl
Baja Gold Sea Salt	29% - 32% NaCl
Hawaiian Red Salt (Alaea)	81% - 84% NaCl
Celtic Salt (Sel Gris)	80% - 90% NaCl
Kala Namak (Black Salt)	95% - 97% NaCl
Appalachian rock Salt	95% - 99% NaCl
Sea Salt	98% - 99% NaCl
Himalayan Salt	98% - 99% NaCl
Zechstein Salt	90% - 98 % NaCl
Uyuni (Atacama) Salt	90% - 99 % NaCl
Kosher Salt	99% NaCl
Epsom Salt (MgSO₄ - 7H₂O)	0% NaCl

*** Himalayan Salt and Hawaiian Red Salt both have a high iron content which is expecially good for women who feel exhausted after (or during) their periods.